Imagine a place where the simple act of bathing is elevated to an art form, a spiritual journey, and a source of profound happiness. This is the world that screenwriter Kundō Koyama invites us into, advocating for yudō, the 'way of the bath,' to be recognized alongside the esteemed traditions of sadō (tea ceremony) and kadō (flower arranging) as a cornerstone of Japanese culture. He's not just talking; he's experiencing it, documenting his immersions in various baths across Japan – from the natural embrace of onsen (hot springs) to the communal warmth of sentō (public bathhouses) and even the intimate setting of domestic bathtubs. His 'Bath Chronicle' in each issue of Pen magazine chronicles these fascinating adventures.
Let's journey to Hirayama Ryokan on Iki Island, a place where the very air seems infused with divinity.
Iki Island, shaped by the relentless wind, holds a special place in Japanese lore. The term haru ichiban, the first warm southern wind of early spring, is said to have originated with local fishermen. But the island's history runs much deeper, interwoven with tales of divine winds and ancient gods. With around 150 officially registered shrines and nearly one thousand including smaller sanctuaries, Iki is, in essence, a spiritual power spot. Could the waters that spring forth from such a sacred land be anything less than extraordinary?
The Divine Bath Awaits:
Reaching this haven is surprisingly easy. A mere hour-long high-speed ferry ride from Hakata Port lands you on Iki. The hot spring at Hirayama Ryokan, is believed to have been discovered around 1,800 years ago. Legend has it that Empress Jingū used its waters for the first bath of her son, Emperor Ōjin.
My personal experience:
I had the privilege of entering the open-air tub of the Tsuki-no-Ma room. Before slipping into the water, I paid my respects to the water deity enshrined beyond the torii gate. Then, I slowly immersed myself in the high-concentration hot spring, boasting a mineral content fifteen times above the therapeutic threshold. As the wind whispered through the surrounding trees, I felt a connection to something beyond the natural world.
A Place of Fortune and Flavor:
"Guests who stay in this room always find good fortune comes their way," shares Makiko Hirayama, the third-generation proprietress, with a radiant smile. And my own luck certainly seemed to arrive before the day was over. The food here is an experience in itself, from the freshest sea urchin and squid to the exquisite Iki beef, a prized regional wagyū. Paired with a glass of barley shōchū, a spirit also born on the island, I savored what might have been the best ryokan dinner of my life before returning to the bath. The sense of well-being is so complete, so natural, that it truly feels like a gift from the gods.
Hirayama Ryokan - Essential Information:
- Address: 77 Tateishinishi-fure, Katsumoto-machi, Iki City, Nagasaki Prefecture
- Phone: +81 920-43-0016
- Rates: ¥800 day-use bath, ¥33,000 and up per guest for one night with meals
- Getting There: About a 20-minute drive from Ashibe or Gonoura ports.
A Legacy of Care:
The Hirayama family, who have long cared for this medicinal hot spring, established the ryokan in 1955. Nearly 90% of the ingredients used in the meals are sourced from Iki, including pesticide-free vegetables grown by the family. Food scraps and vegetable peels are repurposed as livestock feed or returned to the soil as compost, creating a sustainable, circular system.
But here's where it gets controversial... Could the simple act of bathing truly bring happiness? Or is it the combination of the natural beauty, the history, the delicious food, and the attentive care of the Hirayama family that creates this sense of well-being?
And this is the part most people miss... The commitment to sustainability and the deep respect for tradition at Hirayama Ryokan create a holistic experience that nourishes both body and soul.
What do you think? Have you ever experienced a place that felt truly sacred? Share your thoughts in the comments below – do you believe in the power of the bath?
